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Position
Ideally situated in half sun, half shade and not near trees or hedges as leaves will fall into your pond and rot, polluting the water. It is also worth considering the distance to an electricity supply for pond equipment.
Shape
The simpler the shape the easier and more economical the pond will be to construct. Experiment by marking out the shape with a piece of rope or sand until you find the shape you are happiest with.
Depth
The depth of your pond should be at least 18" to prevent it freezing solid in winter. Smaller fish can live comfortably in this depth but koi and other large fish will need a depth of at least 40" to reside happily over winter. Green water tends to be more of a problem in shallow ponds. Around the edges of the pond, shelves at least 9" from the surface and 9" wide allow for planting baskets.
Construction
Once you have marked out the shape of your pond remove the turf and begin to dig down, remembering to build in a shelf at a depth of 9" to 12" to support the pond shape and allow marginal plants to grow. Once any sharp objects and tree roots have been removed, line the pond with sand and a good quality underlay to stop anything damaging the liner. Unfold your liner and gently mold it to the shape of the hole keeping the edges loosely in place with bricks or stones. Running water into the pond will help work the liner into shape (do not allow it to stretch the liner as this will weaken it). Once the pond is completely full trim the liner to leave a 12" overlap and allow a couple of days to settle.
Completion
The pond is usually edged with turf, paving stones or pebbles. You should wait at least 2 weeks before adding fish as tap water will still be harmful to aquatic life during this period. Once complete you can install your pump and filter system to create a natural balance and keep your pond looking beautiful.
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